Part 2

5 June 2009

Travels  in Africa 1


Hi Everybody,

Still alive and well after 6 weeks of travelling ....left Sydney in 18th April at 8pm,then Perth at
3am and arrived Mauritius 9am,,,Stayed at a small cheap hotel near the airport with great water views, then proceeded to tour around the island  using local buses,.....really cheap Mauritius is a honeymooners hotspot the people were really friendly and most spoke some English...lots of curries and seafood
 
Then it was on to Joburg, South Africa On the 23rd and went to Pretoria to get some visas for the forthcoming 60 day overland trip....well what a waste of time that was!!!   Visas issued on the day of purchase start straight away and would have expired before we got there...was advised to purchase the required one at the border on arrival... I then signed up for a 4 day camping trip to Kruger National Park and headed back to Joberg and arranged to visit the son of an old English friend I'd met in the Falklands in 1980...then on to Kruger...what a feast of animals we saw...zebras and impala finished up being as common as sheep and cattle  ...then buffalo cheetah
elephants rhinos crocs lions all from converted Landrovers with raised seating. This was followed with another 2 days of the same but the sighting of a leopard evaded us to make up the BIG 5,     I then bought a ticket on BAZ BUS , a hop on- hop off  bus service that drops you at the door of the backpackers you are staying in all the way to Capetown ...unlimited stops, unlimited time
First stop was in Swaziland and then down the coast ...St Lucia (hippos wander the streets at night,,windy beach)... Durban ( with a side trip to the Drakensberg) Bululanga in the middle of the Xhosa Villages on the Wild Coast  ...Port Elizabeth ..Jeffreys Bay  ,of surfing fame and
where the perfect wave was supposed to be in the old surf movie called " The Endless Summer"...then another side trip to Outdshoorn to see the Ostrich farms...Stellenbosh which
is like the Barossa Valley and South Africas wine region...The old Dutch Colonial buildings really beautufull ..All white with black thatch or green galv roofs ...and finally Capetown
 
Was raining when I arrived so set out last Monday to locate the South African Antarctic offices and spent most of the day there including lunch on board their Antarctic Ship AGULHAS..I should have taken the trip up Table Mountain as the sun came out and there wasn't a cloud in the sky by lunch time ...since then it's rained everyday  and we haven't seen the mountain since...I have another week here before the start of the big overland camping trip...so far have been to most of the musuems, visited Robben Island where Nelson Mandella was detained for all those years... spent time down at the waterfront which has all been modernised .....Tomorrow, weather permitting, it's down to Simonstown  on the train to see all the Jackass Penguins which in summer wander in and out amongst the sunbathers on the beach... and then on the weekend will do the Cape of Good Hope Peninsular tour
 
Cheers for now
 
 

Part 2

Received 3 Sept 09

Hi everybody,
 
This is a continuation of a previous email of my African Trip, which was from Joburg  down to Capetown
 
  The trip down to Cape of Good Hope took a full day ,around the ritzy beach suburbs ,a trip on a launch out to an island to see a sealion breeding colony,  then it was down to the Cape..not the most southern point in Africa but the most south westerly one...the most southern is Cape Agulhas but there is no road to it and hardly anyone goes there.
And the weather did improve before I left, which gave me a chance to see Capetown in the open topped double decker tour bus and that included the trip in the cable car up Table mountain.
 
   Then on the 12th June it was into the Dragoman Camping truck with 19 other persons of different ages and Nationalities heading north through Western and Northern Cape Provences
to the border with Namibia at the Orange River. It was a camping trip..  so we slept in tents at night, and most of our meals were prepared by our on board chef .. we also had a driver /tour guide and and driver/mechanic.
 
Namibia is a pretty dry desolate country but with some magnificent scenery,the deep Fish River Canyon something like the Grand Canyon, the highest sand hills in the world at Sossusvei which means an early morning rise  to climb up and see the sunrise. Then it was on to Swakopmund which is on the Skeleton Coast where the cold Agulhus Current along the coast causes thick fogs to travel inland. Namibia was once German Southwest Africa until it reverted to South Africa after WW 1, but there is still a lot of German Heritage there. Then up the coast to Cape Cross where the Portugese landed in 1400 something and there is now a large breeding sealion colony..then north though some magnificent granite mountains to the Etosha National Park which is an enormous salt pan that tends to dry out in the winter  The animals then congregate around the waterholes  In the evening some of these are illuminated and it possible to see the animals closeup from behind screens.Here we had a confrontation with a large angry bull elephant in musk ( on heat) which caused a few anxious moments when he came at the truck trumpeting and trunk raised.
      Next stop was the Okavango Delta in Botswana where the river terminates in a large pan, and after summer rains fills up. It then dries out in winter bringing the wildlife (mainly Elephants and Hippos)  to a small area, which you view  whilst being paddled around in dugout canoes . On then to Chobe National Park where animals are viewed from tour boats and in the swamps  here,elephants,crocs hippos ,lions, buffalo  are seen really closeup.
Then to one of the most magnificent sight in Africa, Victoria Falls. Seen from the Zambian side only (to Cross over to Zimbabwe entailed the cost of about 100 USD in return visa fees)
but at least we could walk out onto the Bridge  to no mans land to see the Falls and watch the idiots Bungy jumping..there had been very heavy summer rains so the Falls were in full flow.. very very misty and a good place to get very wet from the viewing points.
 
     Next stop was on the beaches along the shores of Lake Malawi for a bit of a rest before heading into Tanzania to Dar es Salaam and a visit to Zanzibar It was a few days at the Indian Ocean beaches and a visit to the old Arab town called Stonetown where the Arabs have been trading in all sorts of good (including humans) for thousands of years.
    Then back inland to Arusha and Moshi at the foothills if Killimanjaro, which we didn't see because of rain and cloud and to the Serengetti and Ngoro Ngoro Crater. Lots of animals here and we at last saw 2 of the elusive leopards in one day ...so that was the BIG 5.
   Out in this area is the home of the Masai, who live a nomadic life on the deserted plains with their cattle and wear brilliant red blankets. Then on to Nairobi in Kenya.
 
A section of the tour finished here and most of the group left,  more people joined for the 2 week extension to see the Gorillas...
  First stop Lake Nakuru in the Rift Valley ,lots of flamingos,buffalloes and rhino closeup, Kibale Forest for the Chimps in Uganda.
  Then into Rwanda to see the Gorillas...there are 7 Gorilla families in the Volcan National Park  and they only allow 8 people each day 1 hour to visit them.  The cost is 500
USD each but seeing the family upclose with the big Silverback and the other males , females and baby ones is worth every cent.
 We then made our way back to Jinja in Uganda where the White Nile flows out of Lake Victoria ,heading north to Egypt for a couple of days and then back to Nairobi
    I flew home from here via Mauritius again ... made it home a few weeks ago and am nearly back to normal again...
Am now planning the next trip... to Madagascar and north though Kenya to Ethiopa ,
Sudan and into Egypt
 
Cheers
 
Graeme


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